The Second Day in Jeju

Like almost all my plans, the itinerary for the day was packed, starting early with five destinations. However, we all know that plans are meant to be changed.

Planning with Naver Map

We skipped the first destination and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast. By the time we left the house, the sun was already strong. Our car was parked in direct sunlight. After cranking up the air conditioner, we headed to the Kim Chang-yeol Museum.

I was quite interested in art in my 20s, but I didn’t recognize this name. As I parked the car and approached the building, I wondered whether he was a talented artist I had overlooked or a savvy businessman. A large rosemary bush greeted me along the way.

Entering the museum, the familiar atmosphere overtook me—the scent of still air, shadows, and enclosed spaces filled my lungs and senses. I don’t know why, but I’ve always loved the smell of air that hasn’t been ventilated for a long time, like that in basements or storage areas. Would I like the smell inside a coffin? With this thought, I proceeded room by room. I had forgotten how much I enjoyed the ambiance of art museums. If I could design my own house, it would feel like this.

His signature work focused on “water drops.” Reading about his life, it seemed far from easy. Experiencing war had likely led him to question existence, a theme reflected in the darker tones of his early works. He also explored how he could resonate as a minor player in New York’s pop art scene. He must have been a lonely artist.

Art is born from two sources: pain or drugs. The real art thrives on the artist’s suffering.

This sentiment seemed true at our next stop, the Jeju Modern Art Museum. The pieces there hardly moved me. It’s challenging to find artists whose work truly touches the heart rather than simply displaying ego.

The area had other art museums, but we didn’t feel compelled to visit them, especially under the blazing sun.

The streets and museums were surprisingly empty. Was August the off-season in Jeju?

Our next stop was the O’sulloc Tea Museum. From what I had read, it offered views of expansive green tea fields and boasted premium ice cream and beverages. Although pricey, they promised to be refreshing.

There was no shade in the parking place. I parked the car in the blazing sun again. The parking lot was large, and attendants were directing cars into empty spots. It seemed like everyone in Jeju had converged here. As we entered into the building, which was supposed to be a ‘museum’, it felt like a noisy marketplace. Tea products filled the shelves in colorful boxes. Staff members struggled to keep up with orders, placed via three mobile kiosks. I questioned the appeal of such a crowded, soulless space as I waited in line.

Finally, we found a quieter spot to sit and ate ice cream and smoothies. I regretted bringing us here and quickly checked where the vast tea field was located. It seemed that the real attraction, which was the fresh, expansive green tea field, and not the taste of the treats, was across the road. And yes, there was no way we would venture there under the strong sun.

I didn’t visit, but the two places seem to be better places if you visit jeju in the hot summer and wanted to taste some green tea base treats.

Daheeyeon

Seogwi Dawon

We started to head to our final activity, was a yacht trip. I recalled the romantic yacht experience I had in Boracay—sailing at sunset. Expecting something like that, I entered in the small ticket office. The place resembled sea leisure spots I’d seen only in movies. The staff wore cute blue T-shirts and provided seasickness prevention medication when asked.

The yacht was more luxurious than I had expected. About 20 people were on board. As we sailed farther from the shore, the color of the sea darkened. The wind felt wonderful, and the setting sun bathed Cha-gwui Island in light. I didn’t know when I was planning, but it seems like this island is a famous sunset viewing spot in Jeju. The scenery was breathtaking: waves crashing on rocks, white foam, and a stunning sky. Sunsets may be universally beautiful, but each time when we come to see it, it feels like a new experience.

Definitely a must experience in Jeju.

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